The is June 2014. As the sun shines brightly across the terrace of a new Italian restaurant on the harbour, we look out over rippling boats and pleasure craft in shimmering water. Edwin van de Goor, who had asked me beforehand to 'do pick something decent', is visibly content to sit back in his chair. We are in the mood for Italian and order a Soave and a Primitivo. After a sip of his red wine, the former wine and food specialist of the year (GaultMillau, 2012) puts on a sour face. "Too hot," he states.

High on flavour

With Edwin as a dining partner, you know: there will be no mincing of words tonight. As strict as he is with himself, the former owner of Seinpost is strict with others. The insalata di polpo and plate of vongole arrive on the table. "Pretty salty," I whisper. Edwin chuckles. "High on flavour, we say then in the hospitality industry." His head is on the pasta ravioli, filled with ricotta and spinach. "Those big, fresh ravioli are divine," he says. But the thick ravioli he gets in front of him are not fresh. "Fresh from wholesale," he sighs.

Edwin van de Goor

When the host recognises Edwin van de Goor, a little later the chef comes to check things out. He turns out not to be very happy with the current menu and we should skip the desserts, except for one. Soon he wants to serve fresh pasta. The chef tells us that he has just prepared a raviolo with a lamb filling. "Well, what are you waiting for man? Make that one for me then," my table-mate responds. "Yes Mr Van de Goor," says the chef as he trails off.

Laugh

Edwin mumbles something. I try to hold back my laughter. Then the chef appears with two ravioli in butter sauce, sage and some shaved truffle; Edwin's face brightens. I prick up a fork. "Put on the menu right away," we think. Fresh, simple and well prepared. As the sun disappears behind the houses, we have another quick cup of coffee and an espresso. "This won't be an eight," I tell him. He nods. "You're not putting my name to this review, are you?"

Roasted pulpo with little gem lettuce, Puy lentils, tomato salsa, courgette and oregano.

RECIPE EDWIN VAN DE GOOR

Roasted pulpo with little gem lettuce, Puy lentils, tomato salsa, courgette and oregano

Recipe for 4 people

Supplies

• 1½ tentacles of frozen pulpo (100 g per person)
• 100 gr. soup vegetables
• 3 bay leaves, 10 juniper berries, 20 black peppercorns, 2 cloves of garlic, 1 onion, 1/2 cube of chicken stock
• 1 part water, 1 part white wine, 1 part red wine (until the pulpo is under the liquid)
• 200 gr. Puy-linzen
• vegetable stock, 1 garlic clove
• 4 vine tomatoes
• 1 red onion (not too big), Worcestershire sauce, sushi vinegar, ginger syrup, flat parsley
• 1 courgette
• oil, white pepper from the mill, fresh oregano or thyme
• 1 little gem lettuce
• oil, vinegar, Dijon mustard, salt, pepper, a drop of aged aceto balsamico
• black pepper from the mill, coarse sea salt, lemon zest.

Preparation

Tomato salsa

• Cut 4 vine tomatoes into small cubes. Add seeds, liquid and stems to the pulpo yet to be cooked.
• Chop 1 red onion and mix it with the diced tomatoes, along with 1 dash of Worcestershire sauce, 1 tablespoon of sushi vinegar, 1 tablespoon of ginger syrup and 1½ tablespoons of finely chopped flat parsley.

Puy-linzen

• Cook 200 g of lentils with ½ cube of vegetable stock and 1 whole clove of garlic; drain lentils when al dente. Save some liquid to reheat them later.

Pulpo

• Thaw 6 of the pulpo's tentacles cut loose from the head.
• Put the pulpo in a saucepan with 1/3 water, 1/3 white wine and 1/3 red wine until it is covered in liquid, along with 100g of soup vegetables, 3 bay leaves, 10 juniper berries, 20 black peppercorns, 2 crushed garlic cloves, 2 half onions and ½ cube of chicken stock.
• Bring this to the boil; when it boils, turn down the heat and simmer for 30 minutes.
• Let it cool in liquid, take out the pulpo and wipe it clean a little.
• Return the pan to the heat and reduce the liquid to sauce thickness, pass the sauce and reserve.

Little gem

• Dressing for the salad: mix oil, vinegar, mustard, pepper, salt and a few drops of aceto balsamico entirely to taste.
• Drizzle the dressing over the little gem lettuce cut in half lengthwise.

Courgette

• Cut the courgette into larger cubes (about 6 p.p.) and fry in little oil with oregano or thyme.

Baking and serving

• Fry the pulpo until crispy, but be careful not to burn the ends (trick: a crust of old bread under the ends).
• This dish should be served at room temperature, the pulpo and courgette from the pan.
• Dress entirely according to your own creativity with a few strokes of black pepper from the mill, coarse sea salt and grated lemon zest as the final touch.

Wine note from Nico McGough, Bosman Wine Buyers

Recently, Edwin van de Goor tasted the wines for his future restaurant with us, but unfortunately it was not to be. With one wine, his language became slightly below average. "Gvd, wát is dit ge-wél-dig say," he cried. After the tasting (we always spit everything out), he resolutely filled a glass with the Pinot Grigio 'Anger' 2020 by St. Michael Eppan from the far north of Italy. Beautiful, stylish, absolute finesse. Dry with lovely filling that matched so beautifully with the pulpo, tomatoes, red onion, lentils and ginger syrup. In the mouth, on the plate and in the glass the consummate choice of a great(er) restaurateur.