Boston Trader's success

Versatz coffee sipping at the bar and leafing through pretty photo books, you would almost forget that Place 20 is not a hip café but a fashion shop. Once the workplace of Vincent van Gogh (art gallery Goupil & Cie), it has been the Boston Trader Department Store for six years.

The 'Parisian showroom' for the ladies, featuring the stylish fashions of Elisabetta Franchi, Pinko and Paul Ka.

From the mezzanine floor, you overlook preppy and trendy brands like Stone Island, Ralph Lauren and C.P. Company for men. Above it is the 'Parisian showroom' for the ladies, featuring the stylish fashions of Elisabetta Franchi, Pinko and Paul Ka. Across the Place, at Boston Trader Men's Wear at number 3, it's suits and luxury 'leasurewear' from the likes of Armani, Lardini, Etro and in-house labels that ring the bell. With a studio outlet on Papestraat as well, you can safely speak of a fashion empire.

Boston Trader is the life's work of the always busy and impeccably dressed Johan Willem Koen and his partner Kristel Koen. Just before the interview, he has returned inspired from the Pitti Immagine, a large, semi-annual fashion fair in Florence. "There is SO much innovation in fabrics at the moment," he concludes. "Very interesting. They often work with recycled plastic from the sea, including by Paul & Shark, a brand we sell, for example. And because it is getting warmer in many places, fabrics for winter are becoming lighter, more comfortable and pleasant to wear."

Koen also spotted all kinds of new themes. "Although anything goes these days, the emphasis this coming winter will be on rugged tweeds and solid checks. 'Peaky Blinders' (British hit series set around 1920, ed.) can be seen in everything, I will say."

Niche market

The entrepreneur then has to translate all these impressions to his own field of activity. "After all, this is not Paris or 5th Avenue in New York. This is The Hague. That means we serve a niche market with our brands; we are there for the pampered connoisseur who also likes to be extravagant now and again and chooses a brand like Etro. A small upper layer."

Boston Trader is the life's work of the always busy and impeccably dressed Johan Willem Koen and his partner Kristel Koen.

Buying the right thing for that select group is Koen's strongest talent. He occasionally does this in consultation with partner Kristel and managers Maarten Gerrits and Philip Lach de Bère. "Often the creative side wins out over the commercial. With a stubborn, innovative scope, we pick things from collections that become special when you combine them. Adding some of those items gives the whole collection an upgrade, a face of its own."

To best serve his customers, there is a lot of personal attention in addition to a distinctive collection. "We create an atmosphere that is understated and sympathetic, with a lot of genuine interest in you. With us, you are received with all due respect, but without nonsense and blasé behaviour. For instance, we have customers who always want the latest in technology, the so-called 'early innovators'. They get an app from us when new items arrive."

Giorgio Armani

Unique is the 'Made to Measure' tailoring programme for Giorgio Armani suits, jackets and trousers. Boston Trader is the only one in the Netherlands to have that programme in-house. "For that, we have three players on board who are trained and certified at Armani. They guide you through the whole process, from fabric selection and manufacturing to after-sales."

Double-breasted

The exclusive 'Made to Measure' programme is the result of a close, now more than 30 years of collaboration with the top Italian brand. And the history of Boston Trader itself goes back even further, to November 1985. "Time flies when you're having fun," sighs the founder. "I started with a tiny shop in the Pasadenha Passage full of beautiful shirts and handmade ties. For purchasing, I toured all over Europe and business was good. So I decided to sell suits as well, all double-breasted at the time."

Desoto brand's immaculate, comfortable shirts.

The fashion man has seen the street scene change considerably in 35 years. "Back then, people dressed much more completely, paying attention to details. Now fashion is rather casual, even at work it is increasingly common to dress informally. By virtue of my profession, I find that quite unfortunate."

Boston Trader

Nevertheless, Boston Trader is increasingly aiming its sights precisely at this generation, the millennials. "Those are the children of my original clients. Back then they came in in prams, now they are big guys and women," he laughs. "I try to think of them when it comes to affordable starter outfits. For that, I recently found a good manufacturer capable of making good suits and shirts at a favourable price.

Own label Black Horse

Under our own label Black Horse by Boston Trader, there is already a suit from 299 euros. In a slightly higher, but still competitive price category, we have Boston Trader Black Label. For 650 euros, you then have a suit with fabrics from the best weavers in Italy: Loro Piana and Zegna." In addition, Boston Trader has broadened its range to include more affordable knitwear, polos and T-shirts. "This way, even the next generation can get all dressed up with us."

Retrospective

Jubilee year 2020 will not go unnoticed. "Just like a few years ago, we will organise a huge fashion show for around 350 guests in the Department Store. A bit like the salons of yesteryear. Other companies with their networks will also be present there, such as Land Rover, Steltman and wine shop De Gouden Ton," Koen explains.

In terms of fashion, it subtly looks back over the past 35 years. "In honour of the anniversary, we designed an iconic jacket with hunter elements and special pockets on it. So there are still a lot of ideas from our design archive that we are revisiting in this special year."

Inspiration abounds, so Koen should not think about quitting for the time being. "I would like to see more of the world, but being in the middle of a company is the best thing there is."

www.bostontrader.nl