Bosman Wine sellers
Pratello: dreams on Lake Garda
Pratello is perhaps the Garda region's finest and most progressive winery when it comes to sustainability. "Twenty years ago, local winemakers laughed at us. Organic? Nobody cared."
DATE
29 March 2023
TEXT
Annerieke Simeone
IMAGE
Brian Mul and PR
Bosman Wine sellers
Pratello: dreams on Lake Garda
Pratello is perhaps the Garda region's finest and most progressive winery when it comes to sustainability. "Twenty years ago, local winemakers laughed at us. Organic? Nobody cared."
Lang past fields of poppies, we drive winding through the vineyards on the south-west side of Lake Garda. Frederico picked us up at Verona airport, less than twenty minutes from Pratello, the winery where we will stay for the next few days. "The way the Bertola family deals with biodiversity is extraordinary," The Hague wine expert Nico McGough told us about Pratello before we left.
Well of Wine
His company Well of Wine is the only one in the Netherlands to import these Nood Italian wines. The bottles themselves are for sale to individuals at his shop Bosman Wijnkopers on Frederik Hendriklaan. "I could talk about it for hours," he continues. "But go and see it with your own eyes. And taste it, of course. Lots of tasting."
Winery Pratello.
From behind the car window, we can see the aluminium wine tanks at the former 1870s farmhouse. That tasting will be just fine. After we drive through a gate onto the cobbled square, Frederico announces that we have arrived. He parks next to a photogenic red 'Beetle'. Photographer and car enthusiast Brian looks at this VW Beetle with admiration. "From my friend Naike," Frederico beams.
The Bertola family. From left to right: Natan, Cristina, Vincenzo, Naike and Federico.
Like him, Naike Bertola is only 24 years old, but is already the face of Pratello. Daughter of winemaker Vincenzo and chef Cristina, granddaughter of also winemaker Dante and Caterina. It is after the latter that the cracklingly delicious sparkling wine Donna Caterina is named, we later find out during one of our many tastings.
Mille 1
Brother Natan, who later drives us to the coastal town of Sirmione, was also born to wine-growing. He manages everything in the fields. All members of the family live on this property. "Buongiorno ragazzi," Naike welcomes us a little later. "You must be hungry. Breakfast? Or see the room first?"
Most rooms are named after a grape variety, such as chardonnay or merlot. But ours is called Mille 1.
We opt for the latter. Most rooms are named after a grape variety, such as chardonnay or merlot. But ours is called Mille 1, the name of the nearby 1001 AD castle (see tips), and also one of the red wines Pratello produces. Delicious with pasta with veal ragout or bolognese, says Naike. A lively, bold wine full of red berries. Perhaps that is why it is not the castle that graces the label, but her red Beetle.
In the distance, the natural swimming pool which, if all goes well, will be joined by a spa centre this year
After three flights of stairs, we reach the upper room with an area of 120 square metres (!). What a space. We glance into the two bedrooms with double beds. There is also a living area with a sofa, a table and chairs, a kitchen and a spacious bathroom with shower and bathtub.
Nature pool
"Have you seen this view yet?" asks Brian standing in front of the window. The panorama is fantastic: hills with cypress trees everywhere. In the distance, the natural swimming pool which, if all goes well, will have a spa centre added this year.
The nature pool.
After a sumptuous breakfast, we trudged up the hills to the vineyard called Brusadili with Naike in the Beetle. "Madonna santa," it sounds. Nice such a vintage car, but no power steering. "Ah, they are there," Naike says contentedly when we have got out.
The saliva of our cows falling on the earth is good for the biodiversity of the land.
She points to the brown cows grazing below. "Do you know what we found out? That the saliva of our cows falling on the earth is good for the biodiversity of the land. Just look at it." She pauses at two rows of vines. One row grows tall flowers, the other is a lot less exuberant. "We are experimenting. Where many flowers grow, the cows have been by, at the other not. Those flowers are important."
'No water, ragazzi. It's a big problem'
While picking a purple flower, she says: "This is the Phacelia or bee bread. It attracts bees and bumblebees and has long roots that loosen the soil well and improve its quality." And so there are more floral benefactors, which also help keep the soil better drained. "No water, ragazzi. It's a big problem. Even here in northern Italy. Every vintner who plants new grapes immediately installs an irrigation system."
'Pratello Idea'
Not only does nature give the Bertola family a helping hand, they themselves decided to be the first winery in the area to go organic. Their philosophy, called 'Pratello Idea', stands for, among other things, reducing copper use in the vineyard, synergy between animals and plants and reducing the amounts of sulphite used.
'Pratello Idea' stands for, among other things, reducing copper use in the vineyard, synergy between animals and plants and reducing the amounts of sulphite used.
And that was a little too progressive for some some 20 years ago. "The vintners here laughed at us. Organic? Good for nature? Nobody cared. If you walked into their fields, the soil under the bunches was burnt. Burnt!" Then sternly: "Remember: plants get their nutrition from that soil. If you start treating it with chemicals, it will also be in your food and drink." She throws her hand in the air. "Yes, now things are different. People are living more consciously. They want to know what is in their food. That's why organic wines are gaining popularity."
Picnic
When we finish our wine lessons, Naike drives into another field. Past a medieval church overlooking the lake is a rug covered with dozens of cushions and vases containing flowers. What is this? A little closer, we see that on the wine crates all sorts of goodies are displayed: sandwiches, carpaccio, burrata, roasted vegetables, bruschetta with olive tapenade.
Picnic in the vineyards of Pratello.
"We're going on a picnic," Naike chuckles. "What can I pour you? Rosé? A bubble?" You can just book that picnic with all the trimmings if you're around here sometime. "Tonight we're taking it a little easier," Naike thinks. "You can choose: sauna and steam bath or a hot tub on the roof? And after that, my mum will do some cooking for you, okay? Oh, and tomorrow you guys are going to work on your own. Make pasta!"
Malfatti
Mother Cristina is already ready in her kitchen the next morning. "Allora, today we are making a kind of gnocchi called malfatti," says the cheerful cook, handing us a cooking apron. After we knead the ingredients into a ball of dough, it goes straight into the refrigerator. Whether we also want to make the tagliatelle with beetroot juice. Sure, goes a lot faster with that special pasta machine. Cristina casts a glance in the fridge. "Va bene," she says as she takes out the dough and places it on a cutting board. "We take a slice off, you roll it with your hands into a thick string and then you cut small sections off. It doesn't all have to look the same, hey, they're not called malfatti or poorly made pasta for nothing."
'Allora, today we are making a kind of gnocchi called malfatti'
Half an hour later, our own creations are on the table by the fireplace. Naike has already grabbed a bottle. "Ragazzi, this is Lugana Il Rivale 90+10. Ninety per cent trebbiano and ten per cent local grapes sourced from this region of Lugana." We had already read about this elegant wine with flavours of peach and apple. But perhaps it would be better to quote wine guru Harold Hamersma here who scored a 9+ for Lugana Il Rivale 90+10: 'a feast to look forward to. Juice, fine dryness, minerality, chicory bitters and a cool freshness without overly emphatic citrus flavours.'
'Could we have the same you have?'
'Lieti Conversari'
Yes, and when Cristina has prepared a huge pan of frutta di mare at Naike's request in the evening, the whole family joins in. The cooking skills do not go unnoticed in the restaurant. Sitting next to us is a family from Monaco. "Could we have the same you have?", one of the women asks. "Sorry," says Naike. "This is not on the menu." We dip the toasted bread in the fish broth. "What do we drink with it?" asks Vincenzo to his daughter. This time, the young wine connoisseur has chosen 'Lieti Conversari' (literally: cheerful conversation). "Ideal for fish dishes. With a mineral."
'Guys, also try our limoncello and this gin'
With dessert tiramisu, Vincenzo has something else nice in store for us: their new vermouth rosé with a slice of candied orange. We'd never thought of it that way, but it tastes fantastic with dessert. Vincenzo, delighted with his enthusiastic guests, then fully unpacks. "Guys, also try our limoncello and this gin. Do you know that it is aged for 24 months in durmast oak barriques? No, we didn't know. But it does come in. An alcohol content of 40%!
Naike in action.
That you are completely pampered here is clear to us after this trip. The love and dedication of this family are incredible. Naike has devised a programme for every day: sometimes an olive oil tasting or a walk in the vegetable garden, sometimes a day trip to Sirmione or Salò (see tips). She is only 24, but has already achieved so much. Five years ago, she and her brother bought a vineyard for their new rosé project: 'Opera Roses'. "With that, we are the first winery in Italy to produce only rosé," she says proudly.
'Opera Roses'
Then: "There is still a whole area to be gained. Italians think rosé is for women. They drink with their eyes, but you have to taste with your mouth!" One of the four wines under 'Opera Roses' is called 'Rocco'. A man's name. Consciously chosen? A smile appears around her mouth. "When we do 'blind tastings', I hear people say, 'Nice, that light, red wine.' Then I pull out the bottle and they suddenly fall silent." This year, 'Opera Roses' will also be available in The Hague. But we are going to hear more from Pratello. And especially from this frontwoman: Naike Bertola.
www.bosmanwijnkopers.nl& www.pratello.com
Tips
Castello di Padenghe
Within walking distance of winery Pratello is Castello di Padenghe, a 20-metre-high, square defence tower dating back to 1001 A.D. Over the years, the castle overlooking Lake Garda has been a refuge where residents, scattered throughout the countryside and villages, could take refuge when danger threatened, even with their livestock. Today, several hundred people live inside the walls in modest cottages and artists - especially in summer - use the small stage inside the fortress.
Salò
Salò is a picturesque town on Lake Garda. In the evening, locals and tourists alike stroll in large numbers along the nearly three-kilometre-long car-free promenade. You can also shop there during the day. Shopping street Via San Carlo is right behind the promenade. Take a stroll past the Duomo Santa Maria Annunziata, the Gothic cathedral from 1453, before ordering an 'aperitivo' at one of the many bars.
Sirmione
Popular Sirmione, located on the southern side of Lake Garda, stretches over a peninsula. At certain points, you can therefore see the water to the right and to the left. Also known for its healing springs, Sirmione attracts many spa visitors every year. Worth seeing is the beautiful Castello Scaligero. Up in the tower, you look out over the streets and the harbour where tour boats dock. We ate a delicious fish risotto at Casa dei Pescatori, a very good waterfront fish restaurant. And of course they serve Pratello wine here too!
Five places in and around The Hague Where they serve Pratello
1
Restaurant Harpoon
Oude Molstraat 30d
2513 BB The Hague
070 369 74 97
2
Restaurant Cru
Badhuisstraat 230
2584 HN Scheveningen
06 261 050 32
3
Restaurant Gastronomia Villani
Hellingweg 94c
2583 WH The Hague
070 219 61 96
4
Restaurant La Passione
Noordeinde 196
2514 GS The Hague
070 310 79 53
5
Hoeve Biesland
Bieslandseweg 1
2645 BM Delfgauw
06 55 40 34 01
text Annerieke Simeone image Brian Mul and PR
Lang past fields of poppies, we drive winding through the vineyards on the south-west side of Lake Garda. Frederico picked us up at Verona airport, less than twenty minutes from Pratello, the winery where we will stay for the next few days. "The way the Bertola family deals with biodiversity is extraordinary," The Hague wine expert Nico McGough told us about Pratello before we left.
Well of Wine
His company Well of Wine is the only one in the Netherlands to import these Nood Italian wines. The bottles themselves are for sale to individuals at his shop Bosman Wijnkopers on Frederik Hendriklaan. "I could talk about it for hours," he continues. "But go and see it with your own eyes. And taste it, of course. Lots of tasting."
Winery Pratello.
From behind the car window, we can see the aluminium wine tanks at the former 1870s farmhouse. That tasting will be just fine. After we drive through a gate onto the cobbled square, Frederico announces that we have arrived. He parks next to a photogenic red 'Beetle'. Photographer and car enthusiast Brian looks at this VW Beetle with admiration. "From my friend Naike," Frederico beams.
The Bertola family. From left to right: Natan, Cristina, Vincenzo, Naike and Federico.
Like him, Naike Bertola is only 24 years old, but is already the face of Pratello. Daughter of winemaker Vincenzo and chef Cristina, granddaughter of also winemaker Dante and Caterina. It is after the latter that the cracklingly delicious sparkling wine Donna Caterina is named, we later find out during one of our many tastings.
Mille 1
Brother Natan, who later drives us to the coastal town of Sirmione, was also born to wine-growing. He manages everything in the fields. All members of the family live on this property. "Buongiorno ragazzi," Naike welcomes us a little later. "You must be hungry. Breakfast? Or see the room first?"
Most rooms are named after a grape variety, such as chardonnay or merlot. But ours is called Mille 1.
We opt for the latter. Most rooms are named after a grape variety, such as chardonnay or merlot. But ours is called Mille 1, the name of the nearby 1001 AD castle (see tips), and also one of the red wines Pratello produces. Delicious with pasta with veal ragout or bolognese, says Naike. A lively, bold wine full of red berries. Perhaps that is why it is not the castle that graces the label, but her red Beetle.
In the distance, the natural swimming pool which, if all goes well, will be joined by a spa centre this year
After three flights of stairs, we reach the upper room with an area of 120 square metres (!). What a space. We glance into the two bedrooms with double beds. There is also a living area with a sofa, a table and chairs, a kitchen and a spacious bathroom with shower and bathtub.
Nature pool
"Have you seen this view yet?" asks Brian standing in front of the window. The panorama is fantastic: hills with cypress trees everywhere. In the distance, the natural swimming pool which, if all goes well, will have a spa centre added this year.
The nature pool.
After a sumptuous breakfast, we trudged up the hills to the vineyard called Brusadili with Naike in the Beetle. "Madonna santa," it sounds. Nice such a vintage car, but no power steering. "Ah, they are there," Naike says contentedly when we have got out.
The saliva of our cows falling on the earth is good for the biodiversity of the land.
She points to the brown cows grazing below. "Do you know what we found out? That the saliva of our cows falling on the earth is good for the biodiversity of the land. Just look at it." She pauses at two rows of vines. One row grows tall flowers, the other is a lot less exuberant. "We are experimenting. Where many flowers grow, the cows have been by, at the other not. Those flowers are important."
'No water, ragazzi. It's a big problem'
While picking a purple flower, she says: "This is the Phacelia or bee bread. It attracts bees and bumblebees and has long roots that loosen the soil well and improve its quality." And so there are more floral benefactors, which also help keep the soil better drained. "No water, ragazzi. It's a big problem. Even here in northern Italy. Every vintner who plants new grapes immediately installs an irrigation system."
'Pratello Idea'
Not only does nature give the Bertola family a helping hand, they themselves decided to be the first winery in the area to go organic. Their philosophy, called 'Pratello Idea', stands for, among other things, reducing copper use in the vineyard, synergy between animals and plants and reducing the amounts of sulphite used.
'Pratello Idea' stands for, among other things, reducing copper use in the vineyard, synergy between animals and plants and reducing the amounts of sulphite used.
And that was a little too progressive for some some 20 years ago. "The vintners here laughed at us. Organic? Good for nature? Nobody cared. If you walked into their fields, the soil under the bunches was burnt. Burnt!" Then sternly: "Remember: plants get their nutrition from that soil. If you start treating it with chemicals, it will also be in your food and drink." She throws her hand in the air. "Yes, now things are different. People are living more consciously. They want to know what is in their food. That's why organic wines are gaining popularity."
Picnic
When we finish our wine lessons, Naike drives into another field. Past a medieval church overlooking the lake is a rug covered with dozens of cushions and vases containing flowers. What is this? A little closer, we see that on the wine crates all sorts of goodies are displayed: sandwiches, carpaccio, burrata, roasted vegetables, bruschetta with olive tapenade.
Picnic in the vineyards of Pratello.
"We're going on a picnic," Naike chuckles. "What can I pour you? Rosé? A bubble?" You can just book that picnic with all the trimmings if you're around here sometime. "Tonight we're taking it a little easier," Naike thinks. "You can choose: sauna and steam bath or a hot tub on the roof? And after that, my mum will do some cooking for you, okay? Oh, and tomorrow you guys are going to work on your own. Make pasta!"
Malfatti
Mother Cristina is already ready in her kitchen the next morning. "Allora, today we are making a kind of gnocchi called malfatti," says the cheerful cook, handing us a cooking apron. After we knead the ingredients into a ball of dough, it goes straight into the refrigerator. Whether we also want to make the tagliatelle with beetroot juice. Sure, goes a lot faster with that special pasta machine. Cristina casts a glance in the fridge. "Va bene," she says as she takes out the dough and places it on a cutting board. "We take a slice off, you roll it with your hands into a thick string and then you cut small sections off. It doesn't all have to look the same, hey, they're not called malfatti or poorly made pasta for nothing."
'Allora, today we are making a kind of gnocchi called malfatti'
Half an hour later, our own creations are on the table by the fireplace. Naike has already grabbed a bottle. "Ragazzi, this is Lugana Il Rivale 90+10. Ninety per cent trebbiano and ten per cent local grapes sourced from this region of Lugana." We had already read about this elegant wine with flavours of peach and apple. But perhaps it would be better to quote wine guru Harold Hamersma here who scored a 9+ for Lugana Il Rivale 90+10: 'a feast to look forward to. Juice, fine dryness, minerality, chicory bitters and a cool freshness without overly emphatic citrus flavours.'
'Could we have the same you have?'
'Lieti Conversari'
Yes, and when Cristina has prepared a huge pan of frutta di mare at Naike's request in the evening, the whole family joins in. The cooking skills do not go unnoticed in the restaurant. Sitting next to us is a family from Monaco. "Could we have the same you have?", one of the women asks. "Sorry," says Naike. "This is not on the menu." We dip the toasted bread in the fish broth. "What do we drink with it?" asks Vincenzo to his daughter. This time, the young wine connoisseur has chosen 'Lieti Conversari' (literally: cheerful conversation). "Ideal for fish dishes. With a mineral."
'Guys, also try our limoncello and this gin'
With dessert tiramisu, Vincenzo has something else nice in store for us: their new vermouth rosé with a slice of candied orange. We'd never thought of it that way, but it tastes fantastic with dessert. Vincenzo, delighted with his enthusiastic guests, then fully unpacks. "Guys, also try our limoncello and this gin. Do you know that it is aged for 24 months in durmast oak barriques? No, we didn't know. But it does come in. An alcohol content of 40%!
Naike in action.
That you are completely pampered here is clear to us after this trip. The love and dedication of this family are incredible. Naike has devised a programme for every day: sometimes an olive oil tasting or a walk in the vegetable garden, sometimes a day trip to Sirmione or Salò (see tips). She is only 24, but has already achieved so much. Five years ago, she and her brother bought a vineyard for their new rosé project: 'Opera Roses'. "With that, we are the first winery in Italy to produce only rosé," she says proudly.
'Opera Roses'
Then: "There is still a whole area to be gained. Italians think rosé is for women. They drink with their eyes, but you have to taste with your mouth!" One of the four wines under 'Opera Roses' is called 'Rocco'. A man's name. Consciously chosen? A smile appears around her mouth. "When we do 'blind tastings', I hear people say, 'Nice, that light, red wine.' Then I pull out the bottle and they suddenly fall silent." This year, 'Opera Roses' will also be available in The Hague. But we are going to hear more from Pratello. And especially from this frontwoman: Naike Bertola.
www.bosmanwijnkopers.nl& www.pratello.com
Tips
Castello di Padenghe
Within walking distance of winery Pratello is Castello di Padenghe, a 20-metre-high, square defence tower dating back to 1001 A.D. Over the years, the castle overlooking Lake Garda has been a refuge where residents, scattered throughout the countryside and villages, could take refuge when danger threatened, even with their livestock. Today, several hundred people live inside the walls in modest cottages and artists - especially in summer - use the small stage inside the fortress.
Salò
Salò is a picturesque town on Lake Garda. In the evening, locals and tourists alike stroll in large numbers along the nearly three-kilometre-long car-free promenade. You can also shop there during the day. Shopping street Via San Carlo is right behind the promenade. Take a stroll past the Duomo Santa Maria Annunziata, the Gothic cathedral from 1453, before ordering an 'aperitivo' at one of the many bars.
Sirmione
Popular Sirmione, located on the southern side of Lake Garda, stretches over a peninsula. At certain points, you can therefore see the water to the right and to the left. Also known for its healing springs, Sirmione attracts many spa visitors every year. Worth seeing is the beautiful Castello Scaligero. Up in the tower, you look out over the streets and the harbour where tour boats dock. We ate a delicious fish risotto at Casa dei Pescatori, a very good waterfront fish restaurant. And of course they serve Pratello wine here too!
Five places in and around The Hague Where they serve Pratello
1
Restaurant Harpoon
Oude Molstraat 30d
2513 BB The Hague
070 369 74 97
2
Restaurant Cru
Badhuisstraat 230
2584 HN Scheveningen
06 261 050 32
3
Restaurant Gastronomia Villani
Hellingweg 94c
2583 WH The Hague
070 219 61 96
4
Restaurant La Passione
Noordeinde 196
2514 GS The Hague
070 310 79 53
5
Hoeve Biesland
Bieslandseweg 1
2645 BM Delfgauw
06 55 40 34 01
