Atelier Ruperti: 'true luxury is in the details'
The passion for craft led Sydney Ruperti to open his own workshop in made-to-measure men's and women's clothing. "Creating clothes together is the best thing there is," he says.
DATE
23 April 2022
TEXT
Jasper Gramsma
IMAGE
Brian Mul
Atelier Ruperti: 'true luxury is in the details'
The passion for craft led Sydney Ruperti to open his own workshop in made-to-measure men's and women's clothing. "Creating clothes together is the best thing there is," he says.
Jhe job ends and you also just became a father. For Sydney Ruperti, this was the perfect moment to start his own business. After a long career with international high-level fashion labels, during which he gained experience in bespoke clothing, he pulled on the bold loafers. In mid-2020, in the midst of the corona crisis, he hung out the flag of his own Atelier Ruperti in a stately building on Koninginnegracht 53. "My own skills and network were my start-up capital," he says.
'You can't think of anything, or I have it'
'Low key luxury,' the trim forty-something calls his tailoring. "True luxury is in the details, not in garish texts on big-brand clothes. It's about the finesse of measuring and the time you take to pick the right fabrics." And what fabrics. Ruperti stocks the best that Italian and British weavers have to offer. "Zegna, Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry," he lists. "Fox Brothers, W. Bill, Standeven: you can't think of anything or I have it. And if not, I can get it."
Fancy trousers
Rows of beautiful books with endless fabrics therefore fill the cupboard. Where to start? "You are looking for something you want to enjoy for a long time, so I always say: take plenty of time. Creating the clothes together is the best thing there is." People who come for work often choose unobtrusive business colours, according to Ruperti. "But I also have many wedding clients with specific ideas. Then I ask them to make a Pinterest board in advance. Then you can soon see which way it will go so I can select colours, styles and qualities in a targeted way."
'If something fits, doesn't mean it's the right size'
After the fabric swatches, buttons and linings, it's the measuring tape's turn. "If something fits, it does not mean it is the right size," the craftsman teaches. "For the best fit, I look at a person's build: is it upright or curved? Is the shoulder height even? You have to take all that into account for comfort and fall." Finally, the choice focuses on the finish and the interior. "Do you want a full-canvas suit or 'unconstructed'? And do you like a Neapolitan shoulder with pleats or should it be as clean as possible? Anything goes."
Italy
When the session is over, the fabric is ordered and the wish list with the measurements taken goes to one of the manufacturers in Portugal, Italy and China. "There, in about five weeks, the patterns are made, the fabrics are cut and the pieces are put together. If any minor adjustments prove necessary during fitting, this is done here in the Netherlands." For his corporate clients, he can also do something on location. "Starting from five pieces, I can put down a competitive offer, which is important for the corporate market."
Owner Sydney Ruperti: 'With the service I offer, the garment is tailored to your body.'
So much for suits, as Ruperti also focuses on bespoke clothing in the smart casual category. "Then you have to think of sporty jackets, fashionable safari jackets, but also jeans - so much more can be done than just formal," he explains. "Everyone has more than 10 pieces of certain items in their wardrobe, but in practice you often only wear a few of them. Why? Because those are the most comfortable. With the service I offer, the garment is tailored to your body. So it fits the way you want it to."
Trainers
Not bespoke but can be put together to your own taste are the trainers: casual and also beautiful under a linen or cotton suit. Ruperti has a choice of literally a suitcase full of sole colours and there are some three hundred possible combinations of leather colours and qualities to choose from. "You can go for smooth nappa, soft suede or a sportier grained leather," he explains. Besides the basic model, there are two types of loafers and a court trainer, with more leather panels. "All on the same type of trainer sole, with a footbed that is comfortable like a slipper," he says.
Ruperti has a choice of literally a travel case full of sole colours and there are some three hundred possible combinations of leather colours and qualities to choose from.
Looking back at the crossroads in his life, Ruperti concludes with satisfaction that he made the right choice. "When you work with other brands' collections, you are dependent on what they offer. And I was far from always agreeing with that. With Atelier Ruperti, I can really bring out the love for my craft to the full; I don't sell anything I don't support myself."
text Jasper Gramsma image Brian Mul
Jhe job ends and you also just became a father. For Sydney Ruperti, this was the perfect moment to start his own business. After a long career with international high-level fashion labels, during which he gained experience in bespoke clothing, he pulled on the bold loafers. In mid-2020, in the midst of the corona crisis, he hung out the flag of his own Atelier Ruperti in a stately building on Koninginnegracht 53. "My own skills and network were my start-up capital," he says.
'You can't think of anything, or I have it'
'Low key luxury,' the trim forty-something calls his tailoring. "True luxury is in the details, not in garish texts on big-brand clothes. It's about the finesse of measuring and the time you take to pick the right fabrics." And what fabrics. Ruperti stocks the best that Italian and British weavers have to offer. "Zegna, Loro Piana, Holland & Sherry," he lists. "Fox Brothers, W. Bill, Standeven: you can't think of anything or I have it. And if not, I can get it."
Fancy trousers
Rows of beautiful books with endless fabrics therefore fill the cupboard. Where to start? "You are looking for something you want to enjoy for a long time, so I always say: take plenty of time. Creating the clothes together is the best thing there is." People who come for work often choose unobtrusive business colours, according to Ruperti. "But I also have many wedding clients with specific ideas. Then I ask them to make a Pinterest board in advance. Then you can soon see which way it will go so I can select colours, styles and qualities in a targeted way."
'If something fits, doesn't mean it's the right size'
After the fabric swatches, buttons and linings, it's the measuring tape's turn. "If something fits, it does not mean it is the right size," the craftsman teaches. "For the best fit, I look at a person's build: is it upright or curved? Is the shoulder height even? You have to take all that into account for comfort and fall." Finally, the choice focuses on the finish and the interior. "Do you want a full-canvas suit or 'unconstructed'? And do you like a Neapolitan shoulder with pleats or should it be as clean as possible? Anything goes."
Italy
When the session is over, the fabric is ordered and the wish list with the measurements taken goes to one of the manufacturers in Portugal, Italy and China. "There, in about five weeks, the patterns are made, the fabrics are cut and the pieces are put together. If any minor adjustments prove necessary during fitting, this is done here in the Netherlands." For his corporate clients, he can also do something on location. "Starting from five pieces, I can put down a competitive offer, which is important for the corporate market."
Owner Sydney Ruperti: 'With the service I offer, the garment is tailored to your body.'
So much for suits, as Ruperti also focuses on bespoke clothing in the smart casual category. "Then you have to think of sporty jackets, fashionable safari jackets, but also jeans - so much more can be done than just formal," he explains. "Everyone has more than 10 pieces of certain items in their wardrobe, but in practice you often only wear a few of them. Why? Because those are the most comfortable. With the service I offer, the garment is tailored to your body. So it fits the way you want it to."
Trainers
Not bespoke but can be put together to your own taste are the trainers: casual and also beautiful under a linen or cotton suit. Ruperti has a choice of literally a suitcase full of sole colours and there are some three hundred possible combinations of leather colours and qualities to choose from. "You can go for smooth nappa, soft suede or a sportier grained leather," he explains. Besides the basic model, there are two types of loafers and a court trainer, with more leather panels. "All on the same type of trainer sole, with a footbed that is comfortable like a slipper," he says.
Ruperti has a choice of literally a travel case full of sole colours and there are some three hundred possible combinations of leather colours and qualities to choose from.
Looking back at the crossroads in his life, Ruperti concludes with satisfaction that he made the right choice. "When you work with other brands' collections, you are dependent on what they offer. And I was far from always agreeing with that. With Atelier Ruperti, I can really bring out the love for my craft to the full; I don't sell anything I don't support myself."
