Tet most of my wardrobe is made by Sydney," says entrepreneur Sander Jeukens firmly. Sydney Ruperti, tailor and owner of Atelier Ruperti on the stately Koninginnegracht, hears it with a modest smile.

Sander Jeukens regularly steps in to Sydney Ruperti

The good-humoured Jeukens has been with him for over five years. "And not just for my suits, eh! The big misconception is that that's always what tailoring is all about. No, my casual clothes also come from here, like these jeans." He lifts a pledge off his checked jacket - also an 'Atelier Ruperti' - revealing the embroidery above the pocket: his year of birth. "Details like this that tell something about me make the trousers even more special," he says.

An expensive hobby? "That's a misconception! With the huge range of fabrics, you can make it as inexpensive or as crazy as you want. Besides: ready-to-wear usually needs to be tinkered with afterwards. Why not turn that process around with a much better result? Because such a garment is made entirely to your stature, you wear it with much more comfort, the fit is just right."

"As soon as I put that on then, I am always confirmed in my choice of Sydney: it is not nearly as comfortable as his tailored shirts."

On the latter, customer and craftsman have "healthy discussions". "I like that Italian, 'cut to the bone'. Such armour, so to speak. Sydney, on the other hand, watches out for ease of wear, so I don't feel like I want to take my suit off immediately when I get home in the evening. Together, we always find the perfect balance."

Jeukens acknowledges being spoilt since he has known Ruperti. "If I have something made, of course it takes a while before it's ready. But sometimes I need something quickly, for example a shirt, and then I buy ready-to-wear. As soon as I then put that on, I'm always confirmed in my choice of Sydney: it's not nearly as comfortable as his bespoke shirts."

He experiences waiting for the clothes as a luxury. "That's part of the experience, I enjoy the whole process. It starts when I walk in, often when Sydney has new fabrics that suit me. Sometimes it stays with a cup of coffee or a glass of wine, other times I walk out the door unexpectedly with a big order. It depends on my 'vibe': if I have too much on my mind, it doesn't work out."

Those who are happy want to share. That is why Jeukens gave his business associates a gift card from Atelier Ruperti, a gift for a custom-made garment or shoes. "I don't like standard business gifts. With such a giftcard, you give an experience, even if someone already has everything," he explains. "Companies would also do well to use bespoke clothing as an incentive. That appeals much more to the imagination than a bonus. But that aside."

Naples

Privately, Jeukens also enjoys making others happy with Ruperti's craftsmanship. "For my best friend's wedding suit, I actually wanted to take him to Naples, the tailoring mecca. So I called Sydney and asked, 'Do you have an address for me?' 'Yes,' he replied, 'the Koninginnegracht, of course.' He really made a party of it."

www.atelierruperti.com